I landed in Prague at about 7:00 A.M local time and got my things together for the drive to Plzen. My rental is a Skoda; they’re manufactured locally. It’s a zippy little compact. Fun fact: European models have an auto-shutoff feature if you idle for too long. That was a bit of a shock the first time it happened to me while waiting at a stoplight.
My companion for the week
While I was told that driving in Italy would be a harrowing experience best avoided, I can see how driving in the Czech Republic could be viewed the same way. Although the posted limit is 100 kph on the highway, the generally accepted standard is around 130. Many will push this to around 150, tailgating ever so slightly if you’re going too slow in the fast lane (it’s illegal to pass on the right). Still, drivers here are generally very safe, using their signal lights and for the most part reminding me how bad drivers in Vancouver can be.
The Czech countryside is downright picturesque (no copilot = no photos of this, sorry). Rolling hills, forests and farmland are punctuated by red-roofed towns that border the local rivers. In towns, clusters of Soviet-era concrete housing surround the original Baroque-style villages. Gothic and medieval styles survive in many of the cathedrals and castles.
I would describe Plzen’s old town as ‘cute’. It’s little, with Baroque row-style buildings and cobblestone streets. Its crown jewel is St. Bartholomew’s Cathedral, which dominates the space at the centre of a massive town square.
The interior of St. Bartholomew’s is predictably Gothic: sombre, with beautiful altarpieces and stained-glass windows. Most of the interior was not open to the public but I witnessed many worshippers coming in to make the sign of the cross at the fonts, and pray to Mary at one of the lobby’s side-altars (not sure what the technical term is there — the internet suggests narthex but that sounds too technical).
The best part about visiting St. Bartholomew’s, however, is paying the 50 KR. (approx. $2.5 CDN) to ascend the (very steep) tower steps all the way to the top. The view of the city and surrounding countryside was excellent:
The Jewish Synagogue, third-largest in the world
From St. Bartholomew’s I crossed the river to find the Pilsner-Urquell brewery. The gate to the brewery, constructed for its 50th anniversary, greets you to the spacious brewery grounds:
The brewery tour was excellent and I would highly recommend it. The cost was 200 kr. (about $10 CDN), which included a lengthy tour of all facilities (except administration) and a free tasting of an unfiltered, unpasteurized “12” (hoppier than their standard pilsner) straight from the barrel. The highlight of the tour for me was getting to see a glimpse of the extensive network of tunnels (9 km. in total) excavated underneath the brewery grounds for the sole purpose of barrel storage – it almost had the look and feel of a military bunker.
Our guide shows us a map of the tunnels.
The tunnels
Legends say that, if you throw a coin into the original brewing vat and it lands in the hole, your girlfriend or wife will become pregnant within the year. I decided not to tempt fate…
Tomorrow: Monasteries and Ossuaries
Just beautiful! European cities always seem to be so clean and well kept. Looking forward to more posts.
I am showing the touristy side in the photos, but plenty of walking means seeing the ordinary side of these cities, too. Lots of great graffiti pics if you’re interested!
Also, an addendum: my rental car is a hybrid. The engine actually stops sometimes and goes to battery power to conserve gasoline when idling. The lurching back to life part was a bit unsettling the first time it happened!